- Fitting handle bar risers - general thoughts & Tenere
- Fitting Risers Super Tenere
- Fitting modern H&B cases to older BMW OEM frames
- Fitting Helmets into Top Cases
- Fitting Water Taps to H&B Gobi Cases
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We are often asked about fitting Handle Bar Risers, what's the procedure?
This information is for 'guidance' only! You should be competent at basic mechanical servicing
to undertake this work and if there any doubt, please take it to your authorised service centre
to have this work done! M.A.P accepts no responsibility for use of this information.
NB: Any changing of brake hoses will require rebleeding of your braking system, let alone safe
routing of the hoses on the chassis. Again we strongly recommend this work be undertaken
by your authorised service center!
Also Before ordering it is worthwhile making a few checks to determine what parts you will need and
that your vehicle has adequate cable and brake line length (the first two steps below).
Basically fitting any riser whether it's a block or a pivoting one is the same procedure!
FIRST! Measure the diameter of the handlebar at a point between the two clamping blocks
This tells you what size riser to choose. The diameter will either be 22MM (7/8inch) 25 (1inch) or
31mm (1&1/8inch - new R1200GSwc) .... Now
Place a cover over your tank eg. A towel to support the handlebar while inserting the riser
Loosen the top triple clamps
Hold the bars & remove the clamps fully & lay bars on the tank
Block Riser? Place the riser onto the triple clamp, replace bars & refit the OEM caps
using the supplied longer bolts
Pivot Riser? Place the riser onto the triple clamp, replace the OEM caps on the triple clamp with the standard bolts. Now remount the bars into the riser clamp & refit the riser caps using its bolts.
Make all the bolts finger tight.
Sitting on the bike, set the bars, their height & angle to a spot that best suits you ergonomically
Tighten all bolts firmly & correctly
NOW With the bike on the centre stand (preferably), start the motor & with the engine idling, turn the bars from lock to lock. There should be no increase in RPM nor should any cable, wiring or hydraulic hose snag & impede the free movement of the bars!
If there is any impediment - start again & in doing so reroute the offending part in such a way that it is not impeded. EG. Cables routing under the bar instead of over is one 'suggestion'
In some rare cases, brake or clutch hydraulic lines may be a problem in that now they are too short. To resolve this you may need to reroute the hose run OR calculate the extra length required & get a custom hose made! We recommend John Stanmas PL of Cooroy QLD, the Goodridge (UK) importer as a good supplier!
Block Risers - If fitting a block of up to 25mm height then there is no problem.
Pivoting ROX Risers - First only the 2" (or 50mm) risers fit & pivot correctly (don't use the 1&3/4")
Some customers have found difficulty in getting the hydraulic lines to work & one had longer custom units made up in braided stainless (often a good performance move over standard or aged rubber hoses in any case). Here we recommend John Stanmas PL of Cooroy QLD, the Goodrige (UK) importer as a good supplier!
However, ROX SpeedFX has a new solution that entails rerouting the hoses, replacing one bracket and bending a cable routing bracket (loop). Their experience proven on their own bike is that the hoses-cables DO NOT have to be changed and this is their recommended method.
On the right-hand side of the headstock, the OEM hydraulic line bracket (L) is replaced by the aftermarket hose clip (R)
(Auto parts store eg. Repco/ SupaCheap etc)
Locate the hose clip using the original bolt & location - ensure you use a rubber-lined clip to prevent chaffing!
As for the clutch line, remove the line from the stock bracket. Bend the bracket open, then zip ties the line to the mounting hole of the opened bracket. Consider also zip tying a piece of ¼” (6.4mm) fuel line below the hose connection to make sure it does not rub on the frame of the bike.
With the throttle cables, bend the stock bracket upward so that it points toward the right side of the boke (not flat as this holds cables 2 inches out). This frees up cable length & orients them better.
The wiring harness is removed from the wire retainer to the right of the key switch (Sitting on the bike) to free up some length. Consider cable ties to make sure they don't snag etc.
FITTED! But As a performance tip though - down the track, as the bike ages, stainless
steel braided lines are a better option than any OEM rubber hose!
Fitting Water Taps to Hepco-Becker Gobi Cases